Ministry of Foodies Review
Cuisine: Spanish
Average price per person: 60€
Environment: 8.5/10
Food: 9/10
Service: 8.5/10
Other: Vegetarian options
Website: https://varrarestaurante.com/
Varra Restaurante is one of Madrid’s most talked-about Spanish kitchens right now. A Bib Gourmand winner in the Michelin Guide, Varra bridges old-school tavern fare and contemporary seasonal cooking. It is led by chefs Jorge Velasco and Joaquín Serrano, who are reinventing Spanish classics.
We visited on a weekday for dinner.
Location / Environment
Located at the elegant Barrio de Salamanca, Varra lives up to the neighbourhood’s expectation for refined dining. The restaurant spans two floors: a casual Varra Fina bar on the ground level, where you can “tapear” and order traditional plates, and a more composed upstairs Restaurante Varra with tablecloths and a focused seasonal menu. I would say the ground-level seating is a bit crowded, so it might be a bit loud when the space is full.
The service was professional and attentive.
Varra – Menu
Varra’s cuisine is anchored in seasonality and product respect. The downstairs experience leans into bar-style Spanish dishes, whereas the upstairs menu evolves with the seasons toward balanced plates that play with technique and tradition.
The wine list is curated to pair with both the tapas and the more composed upstairs menu.
Varra – Food
We kicked things off with two gildas. The spin in Varra is that they add grated tomato on top, which actually is a very nice and refreshing addition.
In addition, we had the croquetas with jamon. Those were also very tasty, with a rich bechamel and good balance with the jamon.
The Russian salad had Ibarra chili peppers and peppers that gave it a distinct flavour. Very good option to try, and there is a possibility to add tuna tartare on top.
Another dish was the toast with red shrimp and butter. It was tasty and buttery, but it lacked a bit of acidity.
Similarly, the brioche with the matured picana and cured egg yolk was very flavorful but also lacked acidity.
One of the iconic dishes is the tortilla with pil pil cod and pipparas peppers. This dish is a tribute to Sacha restaurant and its tortilla Vaga. It’s a very rich and creamy dish, and because of that, better to be shared between 3 or 4 people.
Finally, another must-try dish is the 40-day mature picana tartare. It was almost like you were eating a delicious burger in a tartare, and I am saying that in the best possible way.
Conclusion
Varra is best understood as a thoughtful reinterpretation of seasonal, ingredient-driven Spanish food in an upscale manner. Varra earns its place on the list of the best Spanish modern cuisine, even if service and value can vary subtly between visits. Although you might argue that the price is high compared to the portion sizes, the quality is high and it’s worth a visit.
Visit date: March 2026