Ministry of Foodies Review
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Average price per person: 100€
Environment: 9/10
Food: 8.5/10
Service: 9.5/10
Other: Solo-dining, Gluten-free options
Website: https://persemadrigal.com/
Per Sé Bistro opened its doors in November 2023. The chef is Andrés Madrigal, who previously won Michelin stars at El Olivo and Alboroque Restaurant.
Per Se which already has one sol from Guia Repsol, serves cuisine inspired by the Mediterranean with Asian and Latin American influences in an elegant environment.
I visited alone on a weekday (although a public holiday in Madrid) for lunch.
Location/Environment
The restaurant occupies a modern space in Chueca (previously the Arce location) with light wood tones predominant in the space.
The design is tasteful without being too heavy, creating a relaxed but luxurious atmosphere.
Per Se Bistro – Menu
The menu is short but comprehensive in terms of options. Apart from the à la carte menu, there is also a tasting menu with 7 dishes picked from the à la carte menu.
Service
The service is efficient and professional. Chef Madrigal was at the door when I arrived and led me to my table which was a nice touch to the experience.
There was a very good pace between dishes and the staff was monitoring the progress of the meal well. However, the restaurant was probably only half full at the time, so I am uncertain how the experience would be on a busier day.
Per Se Bistro – Food
As a welcome dish, I got a small bowl of hummus with bread. The hummus was very tasty and had a nice touch of acidity.
Next a croqueta with red shrimp and calamari aioli. The croqueta was crispy and juicy inside, so it was a nice bite.
The first dish out of the appetizers was an ensaladilla rusa (Russian salad) with mussels, chipotle mayo and poppy seeds. The mayo was spicy and acidic which worked very well with the richness of the dish. Great concept and a very elevated version of the traditional way of serving the ensaladilla.
The following dish was foie gras mi cuit with cous cous and Pedro Ximenez wine reduction. The reduction was sweet and there were caramelized parts of the foie gras that complemented well the rich, meaty taste.
A red tuna tartare with bone marrow, avocado emulsion and black chili. It was a good dish without being spectacular as I was expecting more taste from the bone marrow.
White and green asparagus with coconut, red curry and chimichurri. The asparagus was well cooked and the dish had a nice level of spicyness.
After that, for the main courses, a sea bass cooked meunière style. The fish was well cooked and the sauce was tasty although a bit thick for my taste. There were also capers, where most of the dish’s saltiness came from. The parts where there was caper were slightly overpowering the fish.
The last main course was Angus rib with celeriac puree and hoisin sauce. The rib was melting in your mouth and the rich hoisin sauce was complementing it beautifully. Perhaps a bit more spice or acidity would make this dish even better.
For dessert, there was a lemon pie version with lemon cream, crumble, citrus pearls, and citrus honey. Well thought to finish on that note, considering the richness of the previous dish. It was a refreshing and light dessert.
Conclusion
Per se bistro offers a journey across Chef Madrigal’s journey. Blending tradition with innovation, results in a pleasant, modern and luxurious meal. The fusion of flavors is intriguing, and the execution is generally on point. However, a couple of dishes could benefit from a slight refinement.
Visit: May 2024
Address: Calle de Augusto Figueroa 32, Centro, 28004, Madrid